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list of my build mods....

Discussion in 'Original Phlatprinter MODIFICATIONS' started by rjarois, Dec 19, 2008.

  1. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    mark, just make the ph one word, then lat smaller, with whatever ya wanna stick under...ya can do in paintbruck even....randy.
    [​IMG]
    i added a trademark for ya, lols
     
  2. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    started working over the y-axis....just was not happy with it the way it was. the screw was rattling in my bushing, making noise i didnt wanna hear.... i am starting with eric's dead nutz, zero backlash, bad butt screw nut. if anyone is starting a new phlatprinter build, just get them first thing, and forget about the steel nuts. just getting rid of the steel on steel alone is worth it. also i got a thrust bearing as i am using a lovejoy coupler and the end has to be captured. my new stepper should be here tonite, and i can start the install. i will report back, with the finished install. randy.
    the kickin, zero backlash nut...
    [​IMG]
    thrust bearings and keeper...
    [​IMG]
     
  3. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Randy the graphix look great man!, Thanks for putting it all together for us.
    Now what will it take to get some stickers?
    Thanks
    MnT
     
  4. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    i have read different ways to line up the screw....this is how i do it. first i get the rods lined up. i found the easy way to do this is indicate them in. when the gantey slides smooth from end to end, this is were the adjustment for the rods come in great. then i slide it close to the stepper and line up with a short piece of threaded rod. after i do that, i install coupler and screw. the screw end has a .375 x .250 bushing that fits a .375 x .500 bushing. the 3/8 bushing is jb-weld on the screw. i used 2 pieces to get the lenth i needed. also i used the 1/2 for line up as the glue dried. the hole in the side of printer is made to be around .510 dia. i jb-weld around 1/2 bushing slide the bushing into the loose hole. hand screw the gantry all the way over tward the bushing, and let dry overnite.....the screw centers the bushing, and i get perfect alignment. randy.
    bushings jb-welded to screw...
    [​IMG]
    3/8x1/2 end bushing...
    [​IMG]
    bushing jb-welded and slid into the loose hole...
    [​IMG]
    gantry moved over as glue dries, and self centers bushing..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Looking great Randy! keep'em coming!!!
    Mark
     
  6. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    glue has dried.....everything installed, and ready for some testing...
    [​IMG]
     
  7. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    Coooool :cool: :cool: Nice mil-spec version of the pp :D
     
  8. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    to keep the lid from flopping backwards, i found some chain at the hardware store.....used small nylon spacers to keep chain from rubbin the wood....
    [​IMG]
     
  9. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    had a fella at work grind my up a cutting tool. i decited on a 2 flute ball nose. he made a high helix for chip evacuation. the .125 dia. has a cut length of 1.0 in. i told him 2.5 O.A. but he made 3.0 long, i may have to cut shorter depending how it fits the dremel. when i plunge cut at work, i prefer a ball nose over a flat center cutting mill. i figured for foam it will be better also on the z-axis stab thru. randy.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Looking forward to the cutting results of this bit in different types of materials.
    Mark
     
  11. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    fellas, did my ghetto control cooler mod.....its from my first phlatprinter cuts....the foam is dow pink 1/2 thick sheet i got from lowes. the mod really didnt come out as nice as i wanted, as i just threw together quickly....i want to get cuttin some models!!. the fan is a antec 120mm that i got from the computer store for $5.00 bucks. after i glued box together, i slapped some paint on, hot glued the fan on, used some velcro, and i will have a happy control board. i still have to get a power supply that will go under the phlatprinter. the one i used is just one i use for my new computer build testing. after i get the power supply, i will update the post. oh, yea....the fan is pullin the air out, if ya wanted it drawing in ya gotta flip the fan...the 120mm is moving some serious air, i decited to pull air out to draw heat away and not have debris gather on the board over time. peace, randy.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Randy, that came out great!
    It blends right in, really nice job on this mods thanks for posting it.
    BTW did you use the power right from the board for the fan?
    Thanks
    MnT
     
  13. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    thanks mark, it should do the job, like i said i rushed it to get done. now im back to work, i have no time for myself, lols. the fan is going to be getting power from a small power supply i got. i will update after the install. randy.
     
  14. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Cool man, sounds good. I know the feeling :)
    Mark
     
  15. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    quick update....my power supply came for my control cooling fan, and will install under bottom like the control board power supply. i got it at crazypc.com it cost $18.00 bucks. also i ordered a 1/4-16 acme nut and a dumpster cnc coupler and anti backlash nut. this dudes stuff at dumpster cnc is some great looking stuff. on the couplers he uses delrin and it has two different ends to pick fron. mine is a .250 end to the 1/4-16 single start acme thread. i knew from the start acme screws were the way to go, pisses me off i didnt listen to my mind....as the z-axis would be harder to mod now. i really think i can still do it when i decide thou. the acme screw rod i got is a precision ground, accurate and straight. i decited i didnt wanna think about upgrading it. i will post photos when the mod's are completed. randy.
     
  16. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    I know the feeling, I am nonstop tweaking my PP so I have learned to enjoy doing a mod on her when I have to go back and rip out everything, I just think of it as a crashed foamie that has to be rebuilt. :)
    'We have the technology we can rebuild her!' :D
     
  17. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    mark, the control board voltage from my power supply checks like 30 volt. the fan i got is just a computer fan. unless ther is a 12volt output on the controller card. randy.
     
  18. dbtoutfit

    dbtoutfit New Member

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    Randy you could put a resistor inline but your going to just consume heat and waste power. Other thing to do is simply add another fan and run the in series.

    Eric
     
  19. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    eric, i just got the 12v power supply, im just gonna hook it up. thanks for the input. i think i read somewere on here someone had trobs doin that. randy.
     
  20. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

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    rjarois,

    I know you already bought a ps, but I will throw this one out. Lots of these e-flite switching ps out there, that people don't want. They power the cheapy lip charger that come with rtf helis, like the blade CX. I've pick up a few, from RCGroups, for future use. They are very small ( 3" x 1.75" x 1.25" ) and put out 12V and rated for 1.5A. Worth keeping an eye out for. This is it:
    http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/De ... D=EFLC4000

    -Kwok
     
  21. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    kwok, thanks for your link. the one i got is 1.25 x 2 x 4.5 and rated for 2amp output it cost $18.00. it looks like a mini power supply that comes with the control board. i think i have 1 more mod i wanna do.......i was going to install the dremel micro shut off switch, but i am just thinhing of a simple light style switch on the side to just flip instead. when i get that done, i think i will be all happy i have the phlatprinter done and exactly just how i want it.....and start cutting models. randy.
     
  22. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    got the power supply mounted for the cooler....i decited to piggy back on top of the other, i hope that wont cause trobs. all the wires are cable tied and clear of the y-axis travels. wile i wait for the acme screw to arrive, i am going to mount a switch for the dremel....pullin the plug got old just after my first cut, lols... i am just one step from being totaly happy with the phlatprinter....my first "real cut" will be a F-22 little park fly. randy.
    piggy back power supplies
    [​IMG]
    good clearance...
    [​IMG]
    ratty, cluttered, and ghetto style,...but have clearance....
    [​IMG]
    if anyone is wondering about the hot pink cable ties, i bought them long ago for the r/c car i was messin with....messy nitro, yea i know i cant believe it myself....nothin like slimey, oil soaked r/c.....
     
  23. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    ok fellas, im finally happy with my y-axis......got my 1/4-16 single start acme screw installed tonite....also with screw i added a dumpster cnc coupler and zero backlash nut. the nut was kinda of a pain to install. ya have to drill a .500 dia hole. the only way i could mount was with blind nuts turned upside down..regular mounting nuts dont seem to have the clearance...it came out fine thou. i think with out spending alot of money this is the y-axis set-up. i used the same thrust bearing, and bushing set-up as i had before. i ran up to 70ipm before it messed up....it runs at 60ipm solid. im sure it will wear in a bit.....ya really cant cut that fast anyhow i dont think.....i sure will test the set-up well thou....i bought a toggle switch for the dremel, and i think i will be done at last.....i will update when i get it installed..randy.
    dumpster cnc zero backlash nut....ya can get different mounting options i got the 4 slots...

    [​IMG]
    dumpster cnc coupler, this stuff fits perfectly...real nice stuff..
    [​IMG]
    same thrust bearing set-up..
    [​IMG]
    not much clearance for mounting....flats for holding when tignening..
    [​IMG]
    video of 60ipm rapid...
     
  24. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

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    Is that high pitch squeal the new nut? Can you post a quick parts list with prices? Is the only reason why you stayed with 1/4", so you could reuse that thrust bearing?

    -Kwok
     
  25. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    kwok, yea i stayed with the .25 screw as to use my hardware.....and i was reading ther is less inertia with the smaller screws also...the high pitch is the motor noise, if you slow down the rapid the motor gets more quiet. as far as the parts list, man bud....i wanna spend some time drawing and cuttin.....the coupler and nut came from dumpster cnc, this fella makes some nice hardware cheap....the thrust bearing came from the place were mark listed the gear stuff. the bronze bushings came from the local hardware store. randy.
     

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