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Unfold Problems

Discussion in 'Trouble Shooting - Support - Help Section' started by Evil-Tunes, Feb 7, 2009.

  1. Evil-Tunes

    Evil-Tunes Moderator Staff Member

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    I have been trying to un fold a fuse for about a week now. I just cant get it rite or even close to being rite? I was wondering If any one could help me with this or give me a good tip on how to do a compound cyclinder. I was trying to do each half in one piece.


    Cheers
    E-T
    Attached files Gee_Bee 3_d V3.5full fuse.skp (456 KB)Â [​IMG]
     
  2. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Man thats a hard one. I tried afor a bit, and I think it's just too complex. Looks cool though :D .

    After I was able to soften the edges more this is what your dealing with.


    I think if you could make it so it doesn't have all those litle squares it would be easier(Less compound curves). Attached files [​IMG]
     
  3. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    I unfolded half of the fuse. You'll have to do the other half. :D You have to run it through the flatten script. I don't have it yet. Sorry.

    The not unfolded side is hidden, BTW.

    Yoram Attached files Gee_Bee 3_d V3.5full fuse.skp (555.8 KB)Â
     
  4. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    It took me about 10min to unfold it. 3min alone I spend on making all the squares that you have made and that are not in the original file. Without them it is more difficult to unfold. The secrete to the proper unfolding is using the shift key. You press on the shift key and then click on a group of faces that you want to unfold together, just like you do when you want to select a bunch of items with the select tool. After you've selected all that you want you let go of the shift key and click on the surface that you want it to unfold to and the hole group will unfold in one chunk keeping their relative position.

    Does it make sense what I wrote above? I hope so. :D

    Yoram
     
  5. jimfoltz

    jimfoltz New Member

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    It is a tough one, but there are a few things that can help.

    When unfolding, it's best to be able to see hidden geometry because many times there are smoothed or hidden edges between faces giving a false representation of a face. So turn on Hidden Geometry in the View menu.

    Also, if you un-soften and un-smooth the geometry you will have a better idea what you have to work with.


    Then, you can run a cleanup scriptthat will remove coplanar edges, lonely edges, and unnecessary edges. Here is an image after performing the mentioned cleanups (I un-hid all hidden geometry also):


    [​IMG]

    Note that sometimes the cleanup will delete needed faces, but you can just draw over one edge to re-create the face.

    I noticed this tab was not connected, so I rotated it so is was attached. (I guess I assumed it was meant to be connected?)


    [​IMG]

    I'm not sure the purpose of the following thin sections. It would really be best if they could be eliminated, but that might mean starting over. They are only about 1/16" wide.


    [​IMG]

    And it would be better if these tabs could be centered on the sections, but since I don't know exactly what they're for, it may not be possible.


    [​IMG]

    I think overall, you will have better results using fewer sections running front to back, and fewer segments around.

    However, now that I have it prep'd, I'll see if I can unfold it, and will post the results in another reply. Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  6. Evil-Tunes

    Evil-Tunes Moderator Staff Member

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    Thank you All very much


    Tiger pilot got it close to what I was looking for one big chunk. I will have to try the Shift key some more On the other half. I will try That clean up tool also.
    I know preping helps alot. The little 1/16 edges are where the cowl starts to go around but I wanted that last tab in there. I will have to find the show geom. never saw that one. I never had CAD training and have been picking up different things here and there. Again Thank you all for the tips and Tricks I know It will help now and down the road as I get Better.

    Oh by the way This is for a Gee-Bee Fuse that I am working on with a KF wing. I streched the wings a little to far I think.




    Thanks
    E-T Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  7. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Not to rain on jimfoltz parade, but I didn't do any cleanup or disconnecting any tabs. I just added the lines that made the arc segments to make them unfold. I don't have the flatten tool so I didn't do it and the part is a little arced. The flatten tool will take care of it and make it on the flat level. It cost $10 and I didn't get around needing it yet (until this case, that is ;) )

    Yoram
     
  8. Evil-Tunes

    Evil-Tunes Moderator Staff Member

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    Ok I tried it again with some of your suggestions they helped alot. Thanks Again.

    The Fuse that I posted was one that I was working on so it was kinda messed up, so I took a new half of the fuse. Filled in the wing holes with a face and cut the tabs out correctly and started over.
    I Set the fuse so it was level and flat in the center. Unfolded the left side then the right sider. Then I unfolded from front to back. I'm pretty happy with the results.


    I got it as flat as I could by eye and by grouping and ungrouping using the group box as a guide. Then I hit it with the flatten to 2-D


    Now I just have to delete some of the lines and see witch ones I want to keep for fold lines or make new fold lines. It's to late now It will have to wait till morning.:) Well look at that it is morning! Might have to wait till afternoon!

    Here is what I came up after some sleep. I think it will work well


    Cheers
    E-T Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  9. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Congrats, E-T. It wasn't so hard after all, right? :D

    Yoram
     
  10. 7up

    7up Moderator Staff Member

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    Lookin' good ET!
     
  11. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    ummmm - errrrrr - I've got a question.
    My PP has a 1/8" diameter router bit, which is wider than the widest part of many of those cuts. Even if I went to a 1/16" bit, it still would not reach to the inner limit of any of them. So, how could you use this layout? As a printed overlay, to show where to apply the X-acto knife to finish the cuts?
     
  12. Evil-Tunes

    Evil-Tunes Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes a 1/8 bit you would have to close in sides and move the tabs around. I use a 1/16" bit so I left the tab's that way as the bit can make it into the slots. I see that some need to be straightend a bit (no pun intended) and I would weld and move the fold lines around. see pic.

    I still have more to add to this piece for the cowling. I haven't fiqured that out yet but I'm getting there. I am thinking of puttting some rings in then sanding it down.

    Cheers
    E-T Attached files [​IMG]
     
  13. tvcasualty

    tvcasualty New Member

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    Woo! That looks tough to fold up! (not saying it wouldn't work)

    Going back to your question though, it goes back to your modeling / model.
    It's too complex for exactly the reasons you are seeing now...

    Take a good look at what I did here:


    Each section there will be another part for the pp to cut out for a total of eight parts (not including the formers). This is diffrent from yours as you seem to be trying to eat the whole plane at once. To me it seems to make more sense to go a bite at a time. Easch section will be unfolded seperately, rolled seperatly, then formed seperatly...

    Here is my P51 being laid out after being cut:
    [​IMG]

    Hope this helps? Attached files [​IMG]
     

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