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rcflyboynj's Build

Discussion in 'Phlatprinter BUILD LOGS' started by rcflyboynj, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. Jnida63

    Jnida63 Member

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  2. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Did you mean Yellow and black, cap the brown? :questions: I'm not understanding the whole common wire thing. :think:

    ~ Nathan
     
  3. Jnida63

    Jnida63 Member

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    Oops, yes cap the brown. the common wire is like the household ground wire that you do not have a spot for
     
  4. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Maybe I'm reading this different, but the way I see it,
    Brown and yellow for 24V A/C
    Brown and black for 28V A/C

    Yellow and black will give you 2V A/C
     
  5. Jnida63

    Jnida63 Member

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    Your right, i was still half asleep when i wrote it, you want to go brown and black and cap the yellow
     
  6. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Awesome! Thanks for the info. I presume that it is brown to negative and yellow to positive on AC in on the board, correct?

    ~ Nathan
     
  7. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    A/C is just that.... Alternating. There is no positive, and no negative. There is a hot and neutral (along with ground), but the transformer isolates that from your house mains....
     
  8. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Alright! Thanks for the info. Wired the supply up with a new plug, it works. Wired it up to the board, it works. Wired it up to the PC and installed Mach 3, going to test that soon! :D

    For those of you wondering, I am using the TB 650 4 axis driver board from Hubbard CNC.

    ~ Nathan
     
  9. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Well... Getting everything hooked up. Working with mach 3 right now trying to jog the motors.
     
  10. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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  11. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Electronics test. :dance3:
     
  12. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    SWEET! :doubleup:
     
  13. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Gotten some progress made!!! Getting soooo close!!! :dance3:



    Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  14. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Your right there Nate! A few more hours and your done :doubleup:
    Mark and Trish
     
  15. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Hey guys... guess what.... I'M DONE!!!!!! Software this weekend....
     
  16. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    :doubleup: NICE JOB NATE!!!! :doubleup:
    Congratulations, Bro you hung in there and got it done.
    Now you will be rewarded with never having to hand cut your models again!
    Great work Nate
    Mark and Trish
     
  17. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Here's the manual for the board I'm using... not entirely sure how I should set the dip switches.

    Also, I'm getting a grinding noise from the steppers whenever I try to calibrate or hit send printer home for anything driven by allthread rods. When I'm just jogging it by the arrows, I have no problem. :questions:

    Thanks,

    ~ Nathan Attached files HY-TB4DV-M 4 axis driver board manual.doc (1.3 MB)Â
     
  18. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Thanks Mark for the 16th step and 3500 hz input. It's working great! :doubleup: Until the wires come lose from the circuit board. :dash1: Need to find a way around the screw clamp downs. :think:
     
  19. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Cool Nate glad I could help out :good: Did you get any cuts yet?
    Mark and Trish
     
  20. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    No cuts yet. Still trying to figure out how to get the wires connected securely to the driver. The supplied screw connectors with the board are absolute garbage. Had one fall apart and 2 screws pop completely out on others.

    ~ Nathan
     
  21. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Maybe solder some wires to a wire block?
    Like one of these:
    [​IMG]
    Part # 7618K613
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/751/=kbpk7e
    Thank you could just connect the steppers to the wire-block. You may even be able to screw the wire-blocks into the MDF as well to keep them in place. :02cents:
    Keep us updated :)
    Mark and Trish
     
  22. PAULE

    PAULE Member

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    rcflyboynj, You are really doing a good job, I really liked watching your videos you are really doing some cool stuff. Thanks for the camera video that will be my next step :D
     
  23. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Mark,

    Thank you for the suggestions. The wire blocks were fine, it was the screws on the actual driver board. Talked to a friend in home security, and he informed me that I was turning the screw backwards. It's hard to explain. I will have to draw a picture to illustrate it for other people who might be using the same board.

    All the motors work now and are getting connection, Just need to get the Y axis tuned right, still getting the grinding at high speeds.

    Also got a message saying "One or more of your motors is tuned too fast for your kernel speed (35000)" Not sure what that means? :think:



    ~ Nathan Attached files [​IMG]
     
  24. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Thanks Paule. You're getting close when you hit the electronics! Not much further to go! :good:

    ~Nathan
     
  25. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    rcflyboynj, I don't know if you already solved the error problem but if you didn't, the error is the inch/min setting for the axis. You can set it lower in the motor setting window. If you need more help in setting them, let me know.
     

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