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CNC pyro-engraving.

Discussion in 'General Talk Forum' started by Tweakie, Jul 1, 2013.

  1. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    For those wishing to CNC reproduce photographic type images on wood (without the use of a laser) you may find this interesting. http://hobbycncart.com/forum/46-234-1

    You may probably need to use Google Translate but the thread has links to a couple of Russian videos showing just how simply it can be done.

    To enable this method, Zoli (one of the Hungarian forum members) has written a beta program ‘G-ray’ which produces Mach3 compatible GCode which varies the X axis feed-rate in accordance with the image pixel value and there is a software download link for any that may be interested.

    I think this should definitely be regarded as a development project but for those who like to experiment it certainly has possibilities. As more people are trying this with different designs of heated wire elements the results are continually improving.

    Tweakie.
    Elizabeth.jpg
     
  2. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    That is cool, Tweakie! I'll look deeper into it.
     
  3. thunder hawk

    thunder hawk Member

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  4. 7up

    7up Moderator Staff Member

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    Cool find, thanks for sharing.
     
  5. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Nice find! This looks like it works well
    Thanks
     
  6. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Just some more pictures of others work which show the progress that is being made in this field. a1pyro.jpg a2piro.jpg a4piro.jpg a3piro.jpg
    Certainly Mach3 operating with variable feed-rate works extremely well once you get the hang of it.

    Tweakie.
     
  7. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Tweakie, at what speed are you printing these pics?
     
  8. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Hi Yoram,

    The feed-rate is variable but typical process time for the above 170mm x 225mm image with a step-over of 0.2mm is 3 hours.
    Obviously this can be done with the laser in less than 15 minutes but there is such a massive difference in equipment cost that the pyro process appeals to those wishing to experiment on a budget.

    Tweakie.
     
  9. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Hi Tweakie , I have been looking though the forum for the specs on the burner, is it a wood burner/soldering iron with a flat tip? I see the pic of the double poles for the tips connection but cannot find any more info on what they use. Also is the heat controlled or is it just a constant heat with the speed variation causing the wood to burn if held in place longer?
    I really must build one of these and share it to OpenBuilds this is just a fantastic project!
    Thanks for the share Tweakie
    Mark
     
  10. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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  11. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Good fortune with the build my friend.
    (Just one tip - the steel ruler looks superfluous but it is quite important during operation).

    Tweakie.
     
  12. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Thanks Tweakie
    Could you explain? Your absolutely right I have no idea what they are there for :) I thought to keep the tip from falling off the edge of the board?
    BTW I will be sharing this build over on OpenBuilds.com once complete, I do have a few other builds in front of this one though so it may take me a while. Have you built one that you would be willing to share?
    Thanks again
    Mark
     
  13. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Which program do you use to generate this g-code?
     
  14. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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  15. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    LOL, Mark, learning Hungarian is next on my list. Thanks!
     
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  16. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Mark,

    The ruler is placed within the last 2-3mm of the scan travel and it serves two purposes - it scrapes any charred material off the tip and prevents the excessive burn mark during the axis pause. Possibly a ruler at each end may be beneficial but they all seem just to use the one.

    Tweakie.
     
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  17. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Cool stuff! Too much on my plate right now but one day I'm gonna have to try this.
     
  18. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    My little variation on the theme - low voltage, high current and stainless steel. :)

    Tweakie. DSC01641.jpg
     
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  19. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Tweakie, I tried the software and when I generate the g-code the F value are always 0.0000. Is that how it's suppose to be or is it wrong? Also, if in the preview picture, at the top left (in the program), is it bad when the border is red or is it how you get the heating element to go over the ruler?

    Can you, maybe, post a screenshot of how the program is supposed to look like just before you generate the g-code?
     
  20. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Yoram, does this help ?

    Tweakie.
    greyscale test1.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  21. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Tweakie, it worked. I now have values in F. It's not 0.0000. May be that it's the white and black values that were wrong before. I've set them to the values that you have and it works.
     
  22. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Glad you got it sorted Yoram.

    I am getting to grips with the electro-engraving now - it can only get better :)

    Tweakie. DSC01648a.jpg
     
  23. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Nice job Tweakie! You never cease to amaze :)
    BTW PM sent
     

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