I saw Dorsal's post on a relay, so I didn't want to hijack that thread, although depending on the current draw of the hotplate, I may have to replace the switch that comes with this unit http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5247&filter=Cabinet%20switch with either a heavier duty one or actually drive a relay. I'm in the process of testing it out with the Rival Skillet now.

I attached some pictures of my current setup, and other than watching to make sure the screws mounting the switch don't interfere with the lever arms, it was pretty simple.

When you have the carrier over the hot plate, power is on. The second you move it away, power is removed. NOTE: This is opposite of the normal designed operation of the switch! Normally, when a door is opened, the switch is designed to be On, we want it to be OFF. I was lucky enough to get a switch that had both normally open and normally closed contacts. Others I have seen only have two wires which would not be suitable for this.

The main point (and probably cheaper) is that you could make a mount out of angle aluminum, buy a momentary puch button switch for a few bucks that would handle the current of the Rival or whatever hotplate you use, and have a fail-safe way to ensure the hotplate is off except when you need it.

If I find a source for the type of switch you'll need, I'll post it here. The switch has to have a "soft" touch so the carrier will set in place without being cocked to one side because of the switch.

Parts: one switch, (a piece of alum 1" angle), a block of wood.

Hope this helps!
John Attached files

 

John, that is a great looking mod, and just what I was talking about!
I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to steal the whole thing, and pretend I thunk of it!

 

Dorsal,

No problem! That's what it's for!

If I find a better switch that can be mounted on an alum angle, I'll post it. Should be under $10 for the materials.

me

 

This is a 20A momentary lever switch that should work for $.45 cents.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17062+SW

 

Build went quick and there were no issues at all. I did "square" all the slots just because of the normal radius left by the bit. I did mix a 50/50 batch of water and wood glue to paint where the adhesive strips for the sheet holder and vacuum seal go as recommended by Crash in his build log.

Excellent assembly technique with the captured nuts and screws.

The only issue now is to document a work flow for Sketchup to produce a 3d model that is usable in CamBam, Mesh3D, or whatever folks want to use, to create plugs, rather than cutting out stacks. With the MK3 and the Phlatformer, you can make every component needed for a finished model, down to the cowl, fairings, and whatever else tickles your fancy.

Great job and great products!

John