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Edge lit clock for my Father-inlaw.

Discussion in 'Projects on your Phlatprinter 3' started by thunder hawk, Jul 14, 2011.

  1. thunder hawk

    thunder hawk Member

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    My Father-in-law's birthday was coming up, and I wanted to give him a special gift.

    Back last December Dorsal posted what I thought was a great idea for a gift.
    It was an edge lit clock by Peter Pasuello. View topic here.

    I watched the YouTube video that was posted by Peter Pasuello.
    Using the knowledge I aquired watching the video I came up with this design for my
    Father-in-law's birthday gift.

    This is the base that holds the flexible LED strip lights.
    All the parts for the base are cut from 1/4" Oak with a 1/8" single flute carbide router bit.
    It was cut at 20" per minute @ 4 passes.

    I used 1/4" square hardwood rails on both sides of the guide rollers to guide the Oak
    through the pp. I've found that even though the router can cut very efficiently, the
    Oak will slip on the rollers if you go much faster than 20ipm.


    I use Rhino 3D to design everything I do as an engineer, or just for fun.
    I used the RhinoCAM plugin to generate the G-Code.
    I've been using Rhino for 15+ years. before that, I used Auto-CAD, and hated it.
    Chain.zip

    This is a picture of the clock at full brightness in a dark room.
    The LED's are dimmable. At it's dimmest the light is barely visible.
    At full brightness, it's possible to dimly light a small room.


    These are the flexible LED's I used.
    I bought them at Common Sense RC .


    This is the RhinoCAM simulation screen.
    If you click on the screen you can examine my layout.



    OUTSIDE MACHINING OPERATION.

    This shows the engraving operation on the outside of the the stand.
    I used a 1/8" bullet nosed router for the veining on the outside


    Note the two 1/8" drill holes. They represent the X0 ,Y0, Z0 for each side of the wood.
    The stand is layed out in symmetry so that the stock can be removed from the pp then
    flipped over and the router bit centered and zeroed for the machining of the inside of the stand.



    INSIDE MACHINING OPERATION.


    This shows the slotting operation on the end pieces (legs).
    the 4 slots are cut with a 1/4" slotting router bit.
    The stand is put together with tongue & groove glue construction.


    This shows the slotting operation that holds the wooden strip that the flexible LED lights
    are glued to. The 2 slots are cut with a 1/8" slotting router bit.


    This is the operation that cuts the finished parts out of the Oak.
    the 4 stand parts are cut out with a 1/8" router bit.


    These are machine simulations I ran to make sure that there were no problems with
    the machining process before generating the G-Code files.



    Although not shown in the machining process views, The 3/16" Plexiglass was engraved and
    cut on the pp as well. I had to use a backer of 1mm depron and guide rails to get it right.
    The Plexiglass was cut at 30ipm. I used a set of 45 degree carbide insert cutters to work the Plexiglass.

    The Oak stand was stained with MINWAX Golden Oak 210B to slightly darken the wood and bring out the grain of the Oak. The stand was finished with 2 coats of satin clear lacquer.

    The whole project took about 4 hours to cut out, assemble, and finish.
    It was not an easy project to do on the pp, but I learned a lot of good
    things about CNC along the way. :ugeek:

    Enjoy, and keep on PhlatPrinting.
    George H. Boyd Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. cncnutz

    cncnutz New Member

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    Hi George,

    Excellent job on the Clock. I really like the shape you have made the perspex. Looks better than the plain square I made mine. Your Father in Law will be very pleased.
    Cheers
    Peter
     
  3. 7up

    7up Moderator Staff Member

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    Excellent work George. I've wanted to try that ever since I saw the video but never have. Yours turned out great.
     
  4. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Nice work George! :doubleup:
     
  5. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    This turned out AWESOME George! :doubleup:
    Thank you for sharing
    Mark and Trish
     
  6. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    That turned our really great. Yet another thing I can put off doing on the PP :)
     
  7. jovian

    jovian Member

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    Gorgeous
     
  8. ToxicToast

    ToxicToast Down in the weeds. Staff Member

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    Well beyond awesome, TH!
     
  9. xtremeRCpilot

    xtremeRCpilot Member

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    All I can say is....... :fantastic:

    John
     
  10. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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  11. blindflight

    blindflight Moderator Staff Member

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    Nice job TH !! I have been wanting to find a how to, to make those signs.. :D
     
  12. thunder hawk

    thunder hawk Member

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    Thanks everyone for the kind words. :D
    I hope to have more interesting things to share soon. :ugeek:

    Cheers.
    GHB :D
     
  13. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    Your plexi clock got me to thinking about a base for my NIXIE kit clock. Plus its a high voltage item so it really needs an enclosure. My overhead mill lost its link to the X worm drive so till that's fixed I'm phlatprinter mk1 all the way. Popped in a 1/32 4F end mil and mounted some 1/8 plexi in a carrier then did a multipass at high rpm at around 20ipm. The results were great. Just thought I'd share the project in a plexi thread. You've given me an idea about a plexi, exotic wood and LED inlay clock also. Can't say its next up but it's moving the peanut in my head around pretty quick.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Nice job 66! :doubleup: The edges cam out perfect!
    I always liked the look of these tube clocks, very steam punk looking.
    What did you use to glue it?
    Thanks for sharing
    Mark and Trish
     
  15. thunder hawk

    thunder hawk Member

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    66tbird,

    Nice job on the tube clock. :cool:
    I like those kind of projects.
    As Mark knows, I am a big Steam Punk art fan. :ugeek:

    Cheers.
    GHB :D
     
  16. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks guys, I glued it with a tack of Weld-on 16 so I thought I could pop it apart later if need be. Turns out 24hrs later its now 'el-permanet­e' :girl_cray2: and I learned a lesson. I've been meaning to run a bead of the Weld-on #3 (water-thin) through the joints to solve up and hide the ugly air bubbles. But I need to make a jig to hold the piece as is releases and resets.

    In the end a new project came up and the clock is doing its job on the shelf. I've three more to build in different flavors. One is a shield using the Arduino platform using IN-17 tubes, it should be fun.

    I'd heard of stream punk art but never really knew what it meant till I did a Google image search. I can say I'm into that by shear means of frugality as a means to an end rather than art for the sake of art. Now that I know what it is I can surely twist my design methodology to fit that style nicely. Good thing I didn't sell that 80lbs of sheet copper and brass fittings :doubleup:
     
  17. dominic

    dominic New Member

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    :lol: :D weld-on!
    Good luck on your next project. keep it up..
     

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