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list of my build mods....

Discussion in 'Original Phlatprinter MODIFICATIONS' started by rjarois, Dec 19, 2008.

  1. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    hello fellas, i have a few ideas for my phlatprinter build. i was gonna post them in the e-zone, but figured they would just get buryed in the cluster of that mess in ther. just for the record, i have read and seen the mods as thus far....i plan on using some of them and my own as i proceed with my build. i will post any and all deviations from the videos that mark and trish made. i will hope that any mods i make are worth wile, and worth any extra work......and hopefully someone building a phlatprinter can get some use from them. i will post more photos, than text as my typing skills are poor. like i said anything outside of the videos will be documented here, my idea or not. randy.
     
  2. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    i decited when building top of the printer, i would leave a end open for removing a roller if needed. used some 8-32 flathead screws 5/8 long and some blind nuts.....
    [​IMG]
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  3. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    So I could remove the top rollers I drilled a hole at the very top of each channel (front | back) on one side of the lid. This way I can still remove the rollers by lifting to the very top, and then slide the roller out the hole. The hole at the very top does not inhibit normal use.
    I did use the same method for the sides of the cabinet. Hated to lock those steppers in for good. Also allows for removal of the Y rods. I have the driver board mounted the same way to the outside of the side piece only so that comes off as a unit. Just leave enough slack in the wires.
     
  4. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    ok, after fumbling around lowes looking for some 7/16 rod for the gantry....all i found was a bunch of bent up junk. looked as if some monkeybastards bent it over ther knees to see how strong it was...i decited to use .500 thomson shaft linear rod. now i had to drill out the 7/16 dia. holes. before i glued them up, i stacked all the ends up.....lined them up used a 7/16 drill first then a 1/2 drill. i went thru all end pieces except the top of the z axis slide. i didnt wanna build the z-slide around the dremel so i drilled holes thru the bottom for the slide rod install. i used someone else's mod to have access to the u-bolt to remove dremel if needed. also the end cap that the board gets mounted to is gonna get bolted, the other end is glued on. i drilled out the screw hole rod with a 3/8 to use a bushing for the end of the screw. didnt want it chewing on the wood.
    [​IMG]
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  5. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    after drilling out the slide holes i wanted to size them.....the dremel sanding drum worked perfect for the 5/8 dia. holes, man i couldn't believe it, lols. i dressed down a stone wheel for the .500 dia. rod i am going to use. i decited to dress to .503 dia. for reasons to follow. i used a regular drill motor to use both sizing tools, as the dremel was to fast of rpm.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    went to test mount the dremel so i can cut the u-bolts shorter, and decited to see how straight the tool was, as i flattened out the wood good. man it was all jacked up......so i took tool back off and just laid it right on the surface plate. still jacked. i was man wtf?? after looking at it closer ther is lettering stickin up from the body, and that was it. laid a small flat, very small just to get the line up. and get the numbers off and flush. after i installed back on the slide just finger tight "no tools" on the nuts. rechecked the alignment....i was like WTF??? really jacked up....looked at it closer agian, were the bottom u-bolt goes its hollow under ther with no back up. and i tightened it more than the top one without knowing. took a very small piece of 1/32 ply and carefully ca glue it on. hit it agian on the plate, to bring the ply flush with the body. remounted the dremel agian....this time it was sweet...and straight with the axis. and the bottom u-bolt has backing so your not clamping on air. i didnt want the tool to plunge up on a angle. now this is straghtend out, i will check the side alignment, then block each side in . i seen others do it as to keep the dremel from shifting in a cut. randy.
    [​IMG]
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  7. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    worked on the case today....seen in a post somewere were someone enlarged the stepper motor access holes. seemed like a good idea, so i did that.
    [​IMG]

    then decited to make the top removable, used some 1x1x.125 alluminum angle for the top to bolt to. used 8-32 flatheads. after i get done with the two long pieces, i will install some in the ends. looks as if im gonna have to piece with short ones. will post when done. still waiting for the rod and bushings to arrive from msc, also waiting for the electrics got the phlatprinter kit, hope the steppers arent to cheezy. randy.

    [​IMG]
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    clampin and workin my way across edges...
     
  8. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    Man, that really looks great! :cool:
    But it looks like serious work!
    btw, your work bench looks like the cleanest, most organized portions of mine -
    kinda -
    if you added a lot of sawdust - maybe. :oops:
     
  9. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    WOW that's some serious angle. :shock: I have my top just press fit and even though I haven't got to cut any foam yet, just run the steppers, the lid seems plenty tight enough. If not I was going to put some angle in the corners as I have a few small pieces left over from building a gravity drop bar hot wire foam cutter a few years ago.

    Also that paint looks really nice. How many coats, and what type? I have 2 coats of latex on, and I can almost see more wood than paint.
     
  10. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    thanks dorsal, i done the real work tonite.....lining up them bushings. man what a job....indicated like crazy, but i finally got em. i used bronze bushings, and .500 rod. waitin on my electronics, want to make sure i get the centerline for the screw right. mount the motor, and work it from ther. that thomson rod is nice stuff. randy.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    i used krylon h20 spray paint. but i am going to go over the whole box with kiltz sealer primer with a roller. after i will spray paint. the angle channel gave the box more support, and made it more ridgid. randy.
     
  12. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    got the z-axis gantry done. used 4 flanged and 2 straight bushings with .500 thomson shafting for the movement. installed a 1/4x 3/8 bushing in the top of slide also. and with dorsal's idea, i installed a bushing with a bolt silver soldered in for the screw end play stop. kinda like a little cup. i am using lovejoy couplers, and the end of screw has to be trapped. thanks dorsal, that is a good idea you gave me. also i had to relieve top and bottom supports as to have bushing head clearance. i did not wanna lose any travel, as its just 2in. to start with. randy.
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  13. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    got the electrics today....tested good. got the z-axis compleated and callibrated. 1.000 move is 1.000. repeated dead nutz....installed blind nuts, to minimize loss of travel. had to dig two screw driver holes in bottom also. used a lovejoy flexible coupler. i got the thing lined up so exact, i really dont think i needed it. i have a big idea for the y-axis, i think it will be real sweet, stay tuned. randy.
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    testing my electrics, if anyone is interested......
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tw2wTNlgUNE
     
  14. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

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    My stepper's don't have any labels. Can you please post a better picture of that bottom label?

    -Kwok
     
  15. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    decited to use some old innertubes off of a old tube, layer up and rubber mount the clamps. it also takes up the side gap on the u-bolt. also after i squared the dremel, i glued on some stops to keep the tool from shifting. randy.
    [​IMG]
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  16. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    no trobs, randy.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    i had to hack down the gear pully oppsite of the stepper motor to install. i think i built it a touch long. installed 2 nylon washers, to take up end play, its a perfect fit. i wanted to trap the roller as to keep any shifting or floating. had to hack the top of the wood to get the roller to slide by the channel i used for the top keeper. i allready had the screw holes filled. randy.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

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    Thanks for the picture. I like the detailed build log, good work! I will be quietly watching. ;)

    -Kwok
     
  19. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    let me say first that i am not proud of this mod. but it was needed.....the motors protruded to keep the cover from going on flush. had to cut two clearance pockets. i do not have any wood working tools, and had to hog out with my dremel. randy.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    after thinkin it over i decited gluing in the axis rods seems like a hit or miss. any kind of misalignment could cause binding in the axis. i was going to wait til i got back to work to make tham outta aluminum, but i used wood instead, 1.5 square x 1/2 the same wood the printer is made from. used 8-32 screws all around. after tapping the holes, i did the old ca harden trick. then retap, worked so good i think aluminum ones would be unnessary. the adjustable slide rods can be perfectly lined up, and can be removed if needed. gotta be carefull picking it up with no lead screw....the gantry slides from one end to the other like its on a air bearing!! my next mod will be fixing the misaligned screw...its off by 1/8in. for some reason. randy.
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  21. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Randy this is just incredible, really nice work.
    Mark
     
  22. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    well thanks mark.....gettin close to compleation soon. got the y-axis screw in, will test tomorrow. the gantry is so smooooooth....i am really happy how it came out. the end rod adjusters work real well. randy.
     
  23. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    i am nearing completion quickly.....i had a y-axis screw misalignment problem. the screw was 1/8in. to low. even flexable couplers wont fix gross alignment trobles like that. it would be a jammin, wd-40 squirtin good time, lols. my mod was to oblong the stepper motor holes like the way the x-axis was. its all lined up now. randy.

    before
    [​IMG]

    oblong mod..

    [​IMG]

    fixed...

    [​IMG]
     
  24. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Good idea on making the holes oblong to account for any up/down misalignment, nice work
    Looking good!
    Mark
     
  25. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    ok, i have a couple more mods......my build is compleated. all i have to do now is paint, so i can submit a finished phlat-printer photo.
    had to relocate mounting holes, because of the rod adjusters
    [​IMG]

    glued a piece of wood on the z-axis to keep wire from going under slide
    [​IMG]

    how i ran wires, not really a mod.....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i want to finish this by telling mark, good job man......people wouldn't realize or understand what it took for you to build something like this from a idea in your mind......any monkey *** can come up with mods and ideas after the fact......but to do what you did, man i just gotta say great job to mark and trish....to have a vision, and follow it through....beautifully done....if any of my ideas help someone, well i did a very small part in your phaltprinter vision. thank you mark, i think this will keep me in foamies til we meet up someday....peace, randy.
     

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