Well after several months of hair pulling, head beating and just pure stress. I finally have found a combo that works for me.
It's only 75% of the original QU-BD setup but i'm happy with the results.

This is my setup and some brief descriptors as to what I had to do:

1. Heat Block (Hot end)
a. Everything needs to be tight. But at the same time don’t over stress the threads as you can strip the aluminium Heat Block really easily.
b. Don’t force the Heat Cartage into the Heat Block. As you will never get it out again if it die’s. Clean out the hole (with a round jewellers file or with 5mm dowel and super fine wet and dry sand paper), check and repeat if required so as the cartage just slips in without being forced and still touches the sides.
c. The thermistor needs to be mounted flush and as close to the nozzle as possible to get correct temp reading for your Firmware/Program. Use muffler putty to keep it in place.
d. Don’t mount the brass nozzle right up against the aluminium block. I found for the best performance and ease of adjustment/removal, you screw it all the way in then back it out about one turn. Insert the Stainless Steel tube, screwing it down to the brass nozzle. From there you can align all three parts. Just make shaw that the brass and stainless steel are mounted flush against each other inside the aluminium block. If they are not you will have a couple of different issues. These being; leakage of plastic out the top and/or bottom of the Heat Block thread, not being able to feed filament into the tube as it is jamming at the gap point, and the Heat Block or Nozzle can come loose and move during a print making a big old mess and damaging these parts.

2. Extruder (Cold End)
a. First, get rid of the UMHW Block. Get a Minimalistic replacement, I have a collection of Mods for the QU-BU here http://www.thingiverse.com/pezzer2003/collections/qu-bd-mod the reason is that a rolling bearing, W/pressure against the Raptor Filament Drive Gear work’s so much better as not all filament is the same width. Also it makes it easier to clear jams and replace filament at any time.
b. Second, get rid of the Raptor Filament Drive Gear. I tried everything with these Drive Gears – Stock, Rounded the Tooth Edges, Hobbled the Teeth, and a mix of all three. And I could not get a reliable print. So, PURCHASE AN AFTER MARKET MK7 DRIVE GEAR. I did, and now I get 15 hour prints without any issues.

3. Setup (Programming)
a. Firmware: I use Marlin firmware on my RAMPS 1.4. And I had allot of issues getting the hot end up to temp and staying there. I initially thought this was because of the thermistor placement. But I found with Marlin you can do an PID Auto Tune for the hot end. Well WOW what a difference that made. 50% of the jamming stopped and I was no longer waiting 20 min’s for it to heat up. I also did this to my Heat Bed with great results.
b. Slic3r: Retraction = Jamming. 0.1mm retraction get’s you started. Then you can add 0.05mm to work on the spider webs.

Sorry if you have heard this all before but this is a list and description of what I had to do to get the QU-BD extruder working correctly and efficiently.


I hope this helps some of you and please feel free to drop me a PM with any questions.

Cheers,

Matt

 

Too easy Mark,
If anyone else has anything they would like to add, please feel free to do so.
My next small mod is a better way to filter the filament from dust. At the moment it's just poked through a piece of dense foam that pushes against the Minimalistic feeder.

Cheers,

Matt