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SlowBipe's Phlatprinter Build #12.

Discussion in 'General Phlatprinter 3 Chat' started by SlowBipe, Dec 5, 2010.

  1. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    I thought I would post some pictures of my build as it has gone so far. I received it on Thursday and have completed nearly through Step 3. I am painting as I go, and this adds a considerable amount of time to the build.

    Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. gben

    gben Member

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    Looks good so far. The MDF really sucks up the paint doesn't it. I'm painting some of my components too and it does slow down the build a bit. I think I will like the results though.
     
  3. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    I am using Rustoleum paints from Home Depot, and I use 3 coats of white primer before applying the color coat. Most of those coats is going into the edges of the MDF. I finally finish with a single coat of Krylon Satin Clear Coat.

    Seems to make a very nice looking and strong finish.

    The hardest part is determining how far in each assembly to go before painting. For instance on the tool holder in the picture above, I painted the white all as one assembly. Worked out very well On the orange, for the Z Gantry, I had to tape off all of the tabs on the sides, and I also had to change the order of some of the assembly so that I could get more parts together without hardware to paint and then go back and add the hardware.

    Everything seems to be working out great so far.

    SlowBipe
     
  4. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    It's looking really good. I like the orange. I used Zinsser 123 primer, and Rustoleum latex for the color. I only did one coat of primer, and 2 coats color. Coverage is 100% in 99% of the areas I painted. I would have liked to spray it on, but my basement has no real ventilation, and I didn't want to go loopy from the fumes. I rolled it on, and was pleasantly surprised how well it turned out.

    Yes the painting sure does slow down progress, but I feel the results are WELL worth it.
     
  5. Flashsolutions

    Flashsolutions Active Member

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    Ditto here... Yes, painting is time consuming, but in the long run, you will be glad you took the time.

    Be careful when you get to the cabinet sides where the pivot arms mount. Try not to get to much paint in the pivot arm guides as you may end up having to sand it off later to free up the arms.
     
  6. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Well, I ran into my first problem. It seems that I may have a problem with my pivot arm guides. I guess I didn't listen very well to your post. I can't imagine that paint on the end grain of the mdf could make that much difference, but when I lift my pivot arms, the bushing won't lock into the up position. It's as if there is just not enough room for the roller bushings to go up to get the pivot arm bushing to slide forward and lock into place.

    Is this because of too much paint on the tops of the two slots that the roller bushings ride in? If they could go up further the problem would be solved. It doesn't look like much paint.

    Has anyone else had a problem getting the pivot arms to snap into the locked position like this?

    Thanks, Michael
     
  7. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    I am posting some pictures of where I am at so far. Please let me know what you think of the color selection. Pretty industrial looking but it should be pretty easy to keep clean.

    One of the pictures shows the end panel C2 where I cannot get the Pivot Arms to lock into the up position. The two roller bearings on each side top out before the pivot arm bushing or bolt reaches a position high enough to snap forward and into locking position. As a result the pivot arms just drop back down when released.

    Any ideas would be suggested.

    Thanks, Michael Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  8. Flashsolutions

    Flashsolutions Active Member

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    The tolerances for those slots is very tight to begin with, so any paint at all will cause binding.

    I mentioned this in another post. I used a hand held Dremel tool with a 1/4" round sandpaper bit to remove the paint from the track and just very slightly rounded the corners off a bit more. Go easy with the sanding... you just want remove a few thousandths of an inch.

    I also added lithium grease to the surface areas and track.

    You could use vaseline if you don't have lithium grease.

    Remove the springs and work the mechanism by hand. It will free up once you get the bind points cleaned up.

    Later on you can wipe off the excess lubricants, but give them a chance to work in first.





     
  9. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Looking great SlowBipe!
     
  10. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Flash,

    I took all of your suggestions and the pivot mechanism seems to be functioning as it should. I may have taken a little more off of the right side than I wanted to, but I think it's okay.

    That one slowed me down a bit, but I'm back on track now.

    SlowBipe
     
  11. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Thanks Mark! This thing truly is amazing. I am having so much fun building it. For my first daughters first birthday I bought her a bunch of erector set gifts. How much use do you think she got out of those at that age?

    Have a great Christmas.

    SlowBipe
     
  12. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    My pivot mechanism was also a little tight due to paint. I did what Flash mentioned back when I built it, but with out the grease. I just didn't want anything to seep into the wood. I did use a rather worn out sanding drum, so it was easier to control how much I was removing. Both sides looked identical, but for some odd reason the right was tighter, and didn't stay up about 50% of the time. After a bit of use it is rather free. It stays up by itself 99% of the time, and lowers rather easily now.

    Another thing I did which I think helped a lot is I polished the ends of the rod that is the handle. The handle didn't slide/rotate too well in the holes, but they were free of paint. Actually the rod was very hard to move. It was also putting pressure on the arms forcing them into the cabinet. I would try and move them out, but they kept pushing the arms out. When I was polishing them, I noticed that the one end still had sticker residue on it even though I took it off with denatured alcohol. A little time on the wire wheel and now the rod for the handle is free in the arms, and I no longer have the arms pressing against the sides which really helps with moving the upper roller assemble.
     
  13. Flashsolutions

    Flashsolutions Active Member

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    Excellent point! I forgot that I had done that as well. Any binding within the pivot arm component set needs to be eliminated and then you will have a very easy to use pivot arm.


     
  14. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Wow! I just finished my phlatprinter and cut out the table file that comes with the phlatprinter. Everything worked flawless. This is the coolest toy I have ever gotten. Thanks Mark for all of your hard work and your brilliant intellect.

    Again, I just have to say WOW!!!

    Watching it cut was so much fun. Now I just have to figure out what to cut next.

    SlowBipe
     
  15. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    :D Another Phlatprinter is born! :D
    Great job SlowBipe!
    Onward to new ideas no limits!
    Have fun
    Mark and Trish
     
  16. iflyos

    iflyos Member

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    I have a couple suggestions for what to cut next...a SLOW BIPE!!!


    :D

    Tim
    AG4RZ

     
  17. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    I have finished my Phlatprinter and here are some pictures of it and the table I built to put it on.

    I wired my rolling cabinet to allow switching on and off the CNC hardware, Router and vacuum independently. You can see this in the pictures. The coolest thing is the plug on the back of the cabinet where you can just push on an extension cord.

    I'm still planning to top the table with a formica type of product.

    I also have power to the cabinet that's not switched for the computer and monitor.

    Check out the cabinet door. It snaps shut with some very powerful SlowBipe magnet's. These things are very useful.

    SlowBipe Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    That is excellent, and the functionality of that cabinet really is outstanding. Puff your chest out SlowBipe, that is a great build! :D
     
  19. iflyos

    iflyos Member

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    Looks AWESOME!!! Can't wait to see what you cut first!!
     
  20. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Thanks so much for the feedback. You guys are awesome on this forum.

    I have run into a bit of a snag. A couple of days ago, I was cutting out about my 6th sheet of foam and my first SlowBipe parts. As the machine was finishing a very simple cut for elevator v hinges using a dremel v-bit (makes great hinges), the machine stopped dead on its return traverse back to 0,0,0. Upon inspection the X axis would only studder on jog. After removing the foam and raising the pressure rollers it would move a little, but putting pressure on the rollers would cause the motor to reverse direction even when jogging in the same direction. The motor moves in random directions and jerks a lot.

    I switched the X and Y axis motors on the CNC controller to eleminate any problem with the motor and the problem transfered to the Y axis motor which is now connected to the X axis controller. It appears that I either have something wrong in the software or in the X axis of my controller. Motors and wiring don't appear to be the problem. My Y and Z axis on the controller still work fine.

    I sent an email to Mark & Trish last night.

    If anyone has suggestions please let me know.

    Michael
     
  21. iflyos

    iflyos Member

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    Check the controller board for bad looking solder joints....and check the screw terminals to make sure they are in good condition, making good contact, etc.

    Next you could swap driver chips between channels and see if the problem follows the chip.

    Tim
    AG4RZ
     
  22. Kroko

    Kroko Member

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    This behavior is similar as if one phase of motor is not working. I suspect motor driver.

    (Low torque, change of direction when you put load on motor, problems with motor start are all indicators of one motor phase not working)
     
  23. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Tim,

    I wasn't aware that you could swap the driver chips. Are these plug and play or are they soldered on. I'm not at home right now so can't look at the board. I have verified that all wire connections are making good contact. Also after connecting a separate set of wires from the second motor, the second motor exibited the same behavior and this motor functioned perfectly well on the Y axis of the controller.

    I suspect something is wrong with the driver for one of the phase coils to the motor on the X axis.

    Thanks, Michael
     
  24. iflyos

    iflyos Member

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    Michael,

    If you are using the Easy-CNC board, they are socketed, and easy to swap See this link:

    http://www.easy-cnc.com/3axisdriver.html

    and scroll down to the close pictures of the board...you can see how the sockets are done. Swapping the drivers out is easy to do!

    If you are using the USB option, I can't be of much help...I haven't taken the plunge on it yet.

    BTW, thanks for sending Crash a present! I am looking forward to his review of it!! (and flying it when he brings it to SEFF!!)

    Tim
    AG4RZ
     
  25. SlowBipe

    SlowBipe Member

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    Thanks Tim,

    Looks like an easy swap to test out the driver. I do have the USB option, but that also means that I have the EasyCNC driver board. The USB board just sits between the parallel port of the driver board and the computer.

    Michael
     

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