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What distance?

Discussion in 'Trouble Shooting - Support - Help Section' started by 7up, May 17, 2010.

  1. 7up

    7up Moderator Staff Member

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    OK, I have used the same 1/8" stock bit from day one (day one was many moons ago) and during my last few cuts I've noticed the delicious smell of melting foam, so I go to change the bit and take the old one out of the dremel but I didn't measure it. Now knowing that the bit has been there from the start, if I put the new bit the same height then everything should be fine as frog hair, so, does anyone remember what the distance is? I'm thinking 1-1/4" but I'm not sure..??

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  2. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    I take it you don't want to re-zero your Z axis? I change bits very often, so I don't have a clue nor have I ever had a problem doing so. I'm always hitting the wrong button and re-zeroing when I want to send home, and vise versa, so I've gotten pretty good at re-zeroing the Z axis :)
     
  3. 7up

    7up Moderator Staff Member

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    No problem to re-zero, I just want everything as mechanically close as possible. Like my planes, although I have a computer radio that can mix anything I need, I still like to set my planes up to fly without mixing.

    I'm just picky that way I guess. :ugeek:
     
  4. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Gotcha... I hear you on the mechanical setup on the airplanes....use the computer radio for tweaks... Just this weekend at the field, a fellow flier asked me why I thought his plane wouldn't stay in trim. After looking at the obvious, among them sloppy fitting metal clevises with no jam nut and big Z bends in the 2-56 rod to make the wire line up, (and this is on a HOT .40 size quickie). I noticed that at full stick movement the servo arm on the elevator only a few degrees each way. I tried to explain why this was bad, and to adjust mechanically, and tweak with the computer radio. He told me he likes doing it this way. Ironically enough, his planes don't last very long anyway as some mechanical/structural failure gets them before too many flights. :roll:

    Anyway back to the bit; I always put the "standard" phlatbit down as low as it will go in the tool. I figure it has it's greatest mechanical advantage there. Nothing to base that on other than it just seems like that would be best.
     
  5. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    I have a "Home-Zero" switch on my Z-axis. :geek:
    When I change bits, I'll install the new one loosely, then Home the Z-axis, and set the bit so it's just flush with the underside of the table. Then I manually raise the axis and tighten the chuck.
     
  6. frankrcfc

    frankrcfc New Member

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    Hey Buk I reset mine to an inch and a quarter out of the chuck. Then I set calibration for an inch. Works perfect for me. ;) I smell too much foam burining, I don't even hesitate to change mine out. That stuff balls up like cotton candy on a stick in no time. :|
     
  7. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    I agree with this not only for the leverage the bit has, but also keep to keep your bit cooler dissipating the heat while cutting with more surface area touching inside of the collet.
    Mark
     

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