Hey guys, I have my MKII up and running. Pics are on the way.

I have a problem though. Y and Z are drifting. After running the front tables for MKII cut file the Y is about 3/8" off to the positive and the bit is about 1/2" to the positive. This is very consistant!!!

To help in the diagnosis, I rewired the Y & Z steppers, just swapping coils to change direction, I then changed direction in Mach so everything would run in the right direction. I still have the same problem only in the opposite, Y was off about 3/8" to the neg, and Z was off about 1/2"to the neg.

It is not mechanical!!!! been there checked that!!!

While listening to the radio today I turned on the MKII, I got lots of static on the radio, I unplugged one component at a time, the MKII is giving off the RF. I isolated the fan last week, it isn't even on the same power supply .

I am not sure what graphics card I have, or how to find out.

I have been on the Mach support forum reading up, and trying every thing that sounds like it might be relevant.

Please throw every suggestion you have at me. I have probably already tried it but who knows.

The computer is very clean, it is not on the web, and has no security.


Thanks in advance for any Ideas.
Jeff

 

Oh yeah, I forgot, this one has been painted and has a few very cool mods. Paint is not quite done, but mid August was too humid. Pics on the way but I'm more interested in getting it running right.

Jeff

 

E-T I'm not sure how to tell if I'm missing steps. I've tried slowing everything way down, and I still get the same amount of drift.

If I go back and forth several times the same distance, it does drift. The drift is cumulative, a longer cut file drifts more than a small one.

I reversed the wiring on the steppers, and the drift was in the other direction.

Thanks Jeff

 

E-T, Yes I've done the calibration, up to 24" on the Y, and 1.75" on the Z. I use a very nice 48" rule with scales on both edges for the Y, and a 6" digital vernier caliper on the Z.

The guys on the Mach support forum are asking the same thing. I am using the MKII front tables as a test file. I use the same file over and over with the same results.

Thanks Jeff

 

Even if calibration is off shouldn't the positive and negative distance traveled be the same ?

 

Not saying this is your problem. But I had the same thing going with my x.The more I ran a pttern the farther it would drift. Turned out to be the board.

 

Thanks Frank, I've been through software and mechanics, with no luck. Were you using the easy-cnc.com board?

Jeff

 

1) What is your computer?

2) I was getting lots of weird stuff until I put my controller and SmoothStepper inside a metal box (electrical shielding). Running in my garage, the freezer, garage-door light and overhead fluorescent light were sending lots of RF. After I shielded the controller system, no funky problems.

 

AAAHH,,,, Dennis 2 nails with one swing. The Cpu is a cheap Dell from Amazon Optiplex GX270. It has plenty of memory and speed, but the vid card is suspect, the specs are good but it is interior, and Mach calls for non integrated ( not that I know what that means ). Frank rcfc had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the board. I have 2 overhead flourescents and there are 3 of us generous souls providing free internet to the neighborhood . I am leaning towards the control board, but Before I throw more money at it, I will try the shielding.

Thanks Jeff

 

After you bought that Optiplex GX270, did you replace the nickel-sized CMOS backup battery (CR2032?) on the motherboard? My GX-280 was giving me fits until I replaced that stupid battery, at the suggestion of Crash Hancock. I guess when the backup battery is nearly dead, it drives the CMOS to doing stupid things.
I thought the video card issue was related to running Sketchup on the machine, not Mach3. I'll have to look into it, as I plan to use my GX-280 to run my 4X4 Hybrid - - - But I am running my PP MK1.5 from my Dell D800 Laptop (definitely an integrated video) and it runs flawlessly, now that I got the shielding completed.

Ooooo - Something else - I loaded a program called RMClock Utility (free version) onto my laptop. It allows me to force the CPU into the high clock rate and lock it there, whenever I'm running Mach. My Dell D800 can shift the CPU from 2.4GHz down to 0.5GHz whenever it darn well feels like it, which REALLY screws with Mach3, and maybe the sff Dells can, also. Since I've never run my PP from my GX-280, I hadn't thought about the need to load that program to it, yet.

 

Jeff, did you read about iflyos's fix? It's in his build log. He said switching over to ECM2 instead of Mach cured his MK2.

-Kwok

 

Thanks Dennis and Kwok, I'll try the shielding first. The GX270 has a plastic case, it's used(refurbished), and the case is in rough shape, when I first got it little plastic pieces would fall out when I tipped it on end LOLs.
Thanks guys
Jeff

 

Well, I just tested RMClock on my GX280 and it shows that it has a dual-core CPU running both cores at 2997.6 Hz, with no step-down option available, meaning it always runs at that speed. If the CPU in the 270 is the same (and I think all desktop CPUs are single-speed) then that can't be the problem.
But it sure kicks butt on my laptop!

 

Have you tried the Sherline mode in Mach3? It solved my Z axis problem. In fact, It may have done even more than that come to think of it. I have not had a missed step of any kind since I set that option in the ports and pins menu.

Anyhow, its a cheap fix, easy enough to try.

 

I am trying a new board and steppers from http://www.hobbycnc.com they were having a sale "board and 3 steppers for $139" and the steppers are 130oz in. I soldered and tested the board last week, but my power supply is only good for about half the amperage that the new steppers need, so it's on hold until the power supply gets here Monday or Tuesday. BTW http://www.bgmicro.com has a 24v 6.5 amp power supply for $14.95 and a lot of other cool stuff for that matter. I am changing out the steppers and board today. I'll have an update as soon as I fire up the MKII again.

I tried all the suggestions except the notebook minimal power setting, I'll check it, but I have the guts out of the MKII, so no results for now.

Another tidbit I found http://www.rockler.com has a nice router speed control for "$49.95" I think.

 

Hey guys

The new board and steppers work great. The power supply from http://www.bgmicro.com came with some funky "Phoenix style connectors" that I couldn't find the mates to. The power supply is PBA150F from COSEL CO LTD. in Japan. I would imagine they were made for some application that required custom connectors, because COSEL's website shows screw terminals only, and Bgmicro is a reseller of bulk items they find on the cheap, Anyhoo I desoldered the connectors, and hard wired the in and out wires directly to the board with a 10amp fuse on the DC side.

I have only cut the front table for the MKII out of PROPINK fanfold from Owens Corning. The cut went fairly well, with just a little bit of skew. This foam has a plastic skin on both sides, and I'm sure cuts differently from the blue. I've used both the pink and blue fan fold for foamies, and I like the pink foam better, but router cutting may be a different story.

My next purchase will be the router speed control from http://www.rockler.com.

I am a HAPPY CAMPER

 

Thanks Mark
For those interested in the Hobbycnc board....
You have to solder the components to the printed circuit board.
That's not as hard as it sounds.
The board is much simpler than the Easycnc board.
5,6,or 8 wire steppers only (no 4 wire bipolar steppers, like the ones from easycnc).
Works on 12-36v, but steppers probably need more amperage (mine are 2.1 amps each). Attached files