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Fozzy's Build OR 10 impossible things to do before breakfast

Discussion in 'Phlatprinter BUILD LOGS' started by FozzyTheBear, Aug 13, 2009.

  1. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Cool Julian!
    Cuts look good. I guess you learned just how close you can put the parts next to each other. ;)
    I like the tool light idea.

    Oh the video still isn't working.
     
  2. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    :shock: :shock: :shock: That's odd.... I just tried it from Internet Explorer and Firefox just to make sure and it plays in the page, and on my Youtube chanel...

    Is anybody else having problems with it???

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  3. tvcasualty

    tvcasualty New Member

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    Very nice Fozzy! Love the yeller light!
     
  4. xtremeRCpilot

    xtremeRCpilot Member

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    Looking Great Julian, I too love the light behind the cut!! Man you have all the good ideas!! :D

    John
     
  5. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    bear, just watched your video....very nice printer build... also how much is the depron over there?? can you just go to a home center and buy it??. randy.
     
  6. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Very cool Fozzy!! I did notice that it looks like your curves are being step cut you should be able to smooth things up a little by turning the CV off under the Settings tab at the top of Mach3

    [​IMG]
    Congratulations!!! on a job well done! I too love the light :) that was a great idea I also love the chain for holding the lid in position, looks just like a chain to hold a monster down!! :D
    Mark Attached files [​IMG]
     
  7. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Thanks Mark! You are absolutely right. I did look at that a while ago and thanks for reminding me to go in there and sort it out. It's one of the things that got lost on the to do list. I was kind of rushed and excited enough to forget about doing it, when I was doing the initial cuts. But I will go in there and get it set up that way. Thanks again for pointing that one out.

    The hard work of setting up properly comes next, and being able to do some cuts in hard materials like plywood and MDF.... I'm going to spend the next few weeks experimenting with that and see how far I can push the monster before it turns round and bites my head off. :D I'll post some video of heavy plywood and MDF cuts as I go along and I'll try and do them with the good cameras rather than the rush job done with the stills camera so far.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  8. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Sounds great Fozzy, I am looking forward to seeing your wood cuts.
    I suppose you know that tvcasualty(Erik) has cut wood sucessfully with the original Phlatprinter? He makes a foam carrier to help grip the material. It seems to work really well. I have tried it too and was able to do it with the MKII as well :)
    Mark
     
  9. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Yes Mark, I read his recommendations on that and watched you doing a carrier cut once. It does seem to work very well indeed. My objective is to get the same results without a carrier. I think it's possible to do it by creating entry and exit fences, that use ball bearing rollers. That way the material can only travel in the X direction.

    I'm going to experiment with that and see how it goes. I'm waiting for the ball races to arrive at the moment. But when they do I'll be sure to post pictures of the results.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  10. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    That will be a great mod Julian! Looking forward to your conclusions. Did you try it without any fences yet just to see?
    Mark
     
  11. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    I still cut my ply the same way I showed back when I first got the pp. I just put masking tape along the top and bottom edges so the rollers can grip really good. The fences help with long distance cuts but I don't use them when I do small stuff like control horns.
     
  12. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    You know, I used to use a large format drawing copier where that trick worked. If it was being fed a paper drawing it worked fine, but as soon as you put a drafting film drawing in there it used to slip. The same trick, put a strip of masking tape down each edge, soon taught it some manners. Thanks for reminding me of that Shaun. I'll give anything a try. :D

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  13. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    I've put my monster to work doing his Evil on some 6mm Teak Plywood hard stuff......MWWaaaaa Haaaaaaa Haaaaaa!! Nothing is safe from his clutches!!!

    OK so here it is after all day of frustration with the "Crack U-Tube Music Nazi Suicide Squad" Who kindly deleted the sound on two of my video uploads. This one survived with just an I-Pod music download advert attached to it (thanks for your greed Sony!!)

    Cutting 6mm Hard Teak Plywood here..... trust me, this is hard stuff!! This is nothing like soft liteply or even pine ply. This is cutting at 20 IPM.
    Very happy with that as a speed on this material. Really what I'm doing is testing the limits of the machine and to be honest this doesn't hit them. I could probably push it twice as fast and still not have it complain.

    EDIT: I forgot to mention that this was with a 1/16th diamond cut CNC bit, literally powders the wood it cuts out.... I'm going to give the 1/16th Chip Breaker bits a try next.

    Thanks to the spring pressure roller mod... no foam carrier or tape or anything was necessary to get it to track straight... even without the fences on the machine. Without that spring mod there simply wouldn't have been enough pressure to keep it straight.

    Crank up the volume and ROCK OUT My Biker Dude Buddies!!! :D



    Anyway!! Here's the finished result in, as Homer Simpson would say, "All of it's red and creamy goodness" Lovely clean cuts and a nice finish to it.
    [​IMG]
    It's a 1/6th scale model of a "Williams Defender" Arcade game machine..... the largest pieces there are 12" high... I'll be posting some pics of the build up in the next few days....

    Next target is 10mm MDF... but that might need a multi pass cut....

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  14. ewo

    ewo Moderator Staff Member

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    Ha ! Smokin video fozzy. :D Im still working my way to wood.

    Great video.!
     
  15. theothers

    theothers Administrator Staff Member

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    Very cool Fozzy!! That is awesome. Mark and I were just sitting here watching the video and we are blown away! 6 mm teak is a very thick hard wood. Great job! 20IPM is really fast. Can't wait to see how the rest of the build goes!

    Mark and Trish
     
  16. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Thanks guys! and hey! Tell me about it... That stuff blunts hacksaw blades!

    Even I'm blown away by this. My original target was to cut 4mm Teak. But it went through that like knife through butter, so I didn't even bother with a video for it.

    If you think that's good I can't wait till you see what's coming next!! :lol: You're going to fall off your chairs with shock. A couple of weeks to that one though, still dialing it in.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  17. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    bear, be carefull bud...ya might bend them 20mm linear rods, lols...looks great, good job. please post a photo of whatever that is ya cut. i would like to see what that is. randy.
     
  18. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Cheers Randy :lol:.... You know you said something about this before and I still can't work that one out... I might bend 20mm Rods..... But these are only 12mm ;)

    they're showing no visible signs of bending under a cut. It might be measurable with a mike but not visibly. I have no idea what they're made of. The only information I have is the info I got from the e-bay seller that I got them from as used items. All I know is that they're some sort of chromium (nickel molybdenum) steel.

    One thing is certain, they're not the normal type of surface chromed linear rails. For one thing, I could stand on them. They individually took my entire weight when they were out of the machine without so much as even a minor bend.

    It's this at 1/6th scale - http://www.klov.com/D/Defender.html

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear
     
  19. firetrappe

    firetrappe Member

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    Foz, that's awsome! I'm really impressed :eek:

    Have you got a link to the 1/16th diamond cut CNC bit you used? I tried a 1/16th chipbreaker bit and nearly set my Phlatprinter on fire cutting 3mm birch ply :? lol

    You better make sure the spindle doesn't detach from the gantry when you're not watching, you might come back to find a pile of sawdust where your PP used to be :D
     
  20. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    No problemo! here's a link to the e-bay vendor. He's in Hungary. Very reliable and fair prices, I've bought quite a lot of stuff off him. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/hunbay_com/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

    Take the cuts real slow, with as high a rotation speed as you get it on Si, and it should be fine.... but like I said! SLOW moves, a stock phlatprinter won't take the rotational torque otherwise. Don't push it too hard. 10 to 12 IPM should be about right. Program that into the cut file as the cut speed, and that way your rapids will still be at maximum. Hope that helps.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  21. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Awesome Julian!
    It looked like you were getting smoke? Was it smoke or just fine dust?
    I know when I used that type of bit I didn't get as good of results as the chipbreaker type bit.
     
  22. firetrappe

    firetrappe Member

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    Cheers for the info Julian. I'll order some bits from that guy next time I need some. I used to buy my chipbreaker and router bits from a UK seller about a year ago : http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/PCB-Circu ... QQ_fsubZ17 . He only seems to be listing drill bits now unfortunately. Another source for chipbreakers is MegaUK : http://www.megauk.com/carbide_drill_bits.php

    I tend to cut wood and plastic at 5ipm to be safe, any faster and I can hear the Dremel bogging down. I cut plastic at 10K RPM and wood at 33K RPM which are the min and max speeds I can get from the Dremel.

    Can't wait to see your MDF tests :cool:
     
  23. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Hi Shaun,
    Nope no smoke.... Just very fine dust... Being a completely dozy numpty I'd forgotten to turn the vacuum on :lol:

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  24. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Test Build Update.....

    Here's a picture of the test model I cut, because randy asked to see it as it was built....

    At only 1/6th the size of the full cabinet it stands 1 foot high.... as yet unpainted, but already looks remarkably similar to the original 1980's arcade game cabinet shown on the right.
    [​IMG]

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  25. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    thanks bear...i was wondering what the heck ya was building....
     

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