1. Hey guyz. Welcome to the All New Phlatforum!



    Sign Up and take a look around. There are so many awesome new features.

    The Phlatforum is a place we can all hang out and

    have fun sharing our RC adventures!

  2. Dismiss Notice

list of my build mods....

Discussion in 'Original Phlatprinter MODIFICATIONS' started by rjarois, Dec 19, 2008.

  1. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    yoram, just for the record, for cutting foamies, marks design is fantastic, and probably would be best to be left alone for that application. the main reason for my mod, is to do sign engraving and when i would do a test cut the material would deflect up. now it will be on solid ground...if you look closely at my first photos you can see the reinforcement beam i installed. one reason was to reinforce the top, and the other was to make the sides more solid and robust. i am working on a pressure roller lid, glue drying as i type this.. i will post update when done. randy.
     
  2. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    foam lover, i will agree about the mod being sweet and costing $20 bucks, but the sharp mind....well that's questionable, lols. randy.
     
  3. Jnida63

    Jnida63 Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    749
    Trophy Points:
    18
    I like it, the Dremel prob won't have the power you need though
     
  4. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    jeff, i cut the 1/4 thick mdf slot thru the top...with a solid base to cut on now, its like night and day. also i have all kinds of ideas brewing in my mind. actually i got a hacker C-50 layin doin nothin that puts out 2300watts of power. :D :D always options, randy.
     
  5. Jnida63

    Jnida63 Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    749
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Hmm, i tried cutting 1.4 mdf and my dremel stalled. with your setup up to i would go with a rotozip.
    I put a rotozip in my MKI with a flex shaft and it made a huge difference.
     
  6. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    6,311
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    NJ
    Randy that is incredible! Really nice work man. Necessity is the genius of invention and it really shows here. Great job Randy
    Mark
     
  7. tvcasualty

    tvcasualty New Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    637
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Randy, it may not be quite as easy as you think to put the code in there. I am totally up for spending time to learn to do it though, as I'd like the feature as well. Gasmasher and I had talked about an advanced mode for these types of settings. This may be best as much of the code will need to be changed. However, the code in general is still being re-organized in such a way that I feel in the future it will be much easier to see how it works as well as make mods.

    I can't wait to see the pressure roller.
     
  8. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,183
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    Maryland
    Randy, you are a crazy man! :shock: But I have to give you an A for effort. I am curious to see how you do the pressure roller, as I think Mark's design solves the problem of the roller blocking the dremel. As you know, I played around with making the X-roller height adjustable. Possibly something similar with the original rollers, could have solved your problem, but it too late now. :p But of course, when you do jobs like carving and plotting, you don't want the good side rubbing on the table surface. And it's very nice to see the work being cut; if not for the pleasure of seeing your creation, then to see how the job is going. Can't wait to see the results! :D

    -Kwok
     
  9. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    2,380
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Sebastian, Florida
    Looking good Randy!
     
  10. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    thx 3-d
     
  11. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    ok fellas, i was gonna do the ghetto hack on the stock lid...but with the new lid having to be a "half lid" i figured it would be to flexible by doing so.....so i just decided to remake out of the same1/2in mdf stock. the photos don't really show, but on the entire mod i used 1/4in dia hardwood dowels, with the titebond glue. the construction is very strong and robust, although it would be better with mark's tabs. i am not finished with it yet, but i wanted to post a update. i gotta get to the hardware store to get some blind nuts for the spring rail mounts...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    2,380
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Sebastian, Florida
    I'm really diggin your mod Randy.
    So many possibilitis with this.
    You got me thinking now if I want to do this :lol:
     
  13. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    i decided not to buy blind nuts, since i had regular fasteners. i didn't wanna go over the $20 dollar budget, lols. got the spring guides reinstalled on my new half lid. i will make the end caps tomorrow. using the hardware i did, it will take more work to build, as i have to relieve the caps were the nuts are...no biggie. after that all i have is to install hinges, and hold down latches. then the mod will be complete. oh yea, i gotta get some of that shielded wire to wire up the x-axis. shouldn't cost to much, as i just need about 3 feet or so. randy,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. janbjorn

    janbjorn Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    130
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Sweden
    :eek: :eek: I'm totally stunned. Randy, I wish I had just a fraction of your ghetto creative thinking ability!

    I have been considering a total rebuild of my phlatprinter using alu profiles. My reason for redesign is that the foam I use for my planes is 80cm wide (31.4 inches) and I don't want to keep scrapping a decent piece of every sheet. I have also thought about other uses for my phlatty, and your design would really help. If you don't mind, I will most definitely borrow some of your ideas!

    This forum is the place to be for creative input! I will keep you all updated when I get around to modding my phlatty (I'm currently saving up for the necessary HW)

    Great work!
     
  15. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    janbjorn, thanks ...the best thing i ever did to my printer is the pressure roller spring mod. so if you anything do that mod for sure...randy.
     
  16. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    ok got the lid installed today. the thing locks up like a bank vault...i made it with a 1/8 high lip, and when i made lid, i worked to that dimension its like a light press fit. ther is like zero slop. also i stole mark and trish's idea with the axle collets and installed two of them to trap the pressure roller. went and got the stepper extension wire i needed, probably hook it up tomorrow. also i am going to build up the top cutting deck. i used a .080in before, but i am going to do a 1/8in this time. with the pressure roller spring mod the x-axis roller don't have to protrude outta the top so much. by doing so the work will be flatter with less angle on the cutting surface. when i first built the roller, i made very carefully, and ther is only .005in concentric run out. if the run-out was excessive you could not have minimal roller protrusion. also ther is minimal clearance between the dremel u-bolt and the lid, its very tight...but to a machinist, a .001in gap is like a mile, lols, peace randy.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    2,380
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Sebastian, Florida
    Now we're talikn'.
    Looks awesome Randy.
    .005 runout on the roller, nice. Man I wish I would have taken more time on that. I know thats why I can't use the 1/8" plate with the fanfold.
     
  18. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,183
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    Maryland
    Looking good Randy. Now I can see the possibilities. I get in trouble, thinking too much about mods, so I may have to look away until I get the MK2 finished. But after seeing your work, I am considering getting a dial gauge. Do you think one dial gauge and maybe one of those magnetic stands, will do it? Any paticular feature, I should look for. Maybe you can link me, to the type I should be looking for. I need to spend, as little money as I can, though. Maybe, I will see what harbor freight has.

    One more question. On the aluminum pressure roller parts, how is the L brackets attached to the square alum channel?

    -Kwok
     
  19. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    kwok, i used jb-weld on the aluminum channel. its very popular down here in the ghetto, and being a monkey its a necessity, lols. as far as the dial indicators, cheap ones can be had...ther are a couple different varieties...ya have plunger, vertical, and horizontal styles. i will try to link you the one i would get. randy.
     
  20. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,578
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Yeah, I would be interested too in it. I'm looking for something to make sure my machine runs true. I've already asked my friends and none has one. This means I have to buy one too.
     
  21. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
  22. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,263
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    royal oak, michigan
    i am testing my new mod with the mach-3 write wizard. soon i will be trying other materials, wood, plastic, etc. here is a video of my first test font cuts. randy.
     
  23. foamlvr

    foamlvr Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    234
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    northwest Ohio
    WOW!!!! Looks great Randy
     
  24. kyyu

    kyyu Active Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,183
    Trophy Points:
    36
    Location:
    Maryland
    Wow is right. The lettering looks pretty good! I didn't know Mach3 could do that. Randy, whats that material you are cutting? Looks like foam, but what about that nice blue coating on top?

    Thanks, for the link to the dial indicator. That's the type I remember, that you push sideways on. The one from Harbor Freight is a plunger type.

    -Kwok
     
  25. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

    Offline
    Messages:
    1,280
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Well, I bought mine. :D Thanks Randy.
     

Share This Page